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Good Taste

Tacos go green at Sancho Pistola's Puebla-born chef Adan Trinidad knows how to cook authentic Mexican, a fact I can taste, however ironically, in the family recipe for rich, dark mole sauce that glazes his meatballs sandwiched between Asian steamed buns a

Brussels sprout tacos from Sancho Pistola's on Girard Avenue in Fishtown. ( DAVID SWANSON / Staff Photographer )
Brussels sprout tacos from Sancho Pistola's on Girard Avenue in Fishtown. ( DAVID SWANSON / Staff Photographer )Read more

Puebla-born chef Adan Trinidad knows how to cook authentic Mexican, a fact I can taste, however ironically, in the family recipe for rich, dark mole sauce that glazes his meatballs sandwiched between Asian steamed buns at Sancho Pistola's.

Then again, that's what has always made Trinidad's work so tasty during his creative modern riffs on Mexican flavors at Jose Pistola's, and now its Fishtown sibling, Sancho Pistola's.

Enter the Brussels sprout taco. It's so popular now that 10 pounds of leaves are plucked one-by-one by a lucky prep cook for three hours daily (at each location), deep-fried to a roasty, bittersweet cabbage crisp, and then piled high on fresh San Roman tortillas spread with caramelized shallot puree. Go without the honey vinaigrette, make it vegan.

¡Olé!

- Craig LaBan
Brussels sprout tacos, $10, Sancho Pistola's, 19 W. Girard Ave., 267-324-3530; sanchopistolas.com