GoodTaste: Ducktown tacos

Al pastor tacos and carnitas taco at Pancho's Mexican Taqueria.

For more than half a century, the Ducktown corner of Arctic and N. Mississippi Avenues in Atlantic City has been synonymous with the classic sandwiches of the White House Sub Shop.

The city's surging Latino population, though, has produced a street-food gem of its own right next door at Pancho's Mexican Taqueria.

One of half a dozen Mexican restaurants on the island, Pancho's excels in the art of the taco, albeit somewhat slowly.

That's because every tortilla is hand-pressed to order, then whipped like a frisbee across to the grill, where they're finished with meat, six to a $10 platter. Tongue and tripe are local favorites.

But the amazingly tender pork carnitas and tangy al pastor, marinated in guajillo and pineapple, are also stellar.

And those fresh tortillas, thinner than most but so pliant and supple, are what elevate them to another level. - Craig LaBan

Taco platter, $10, Pancho's Mexican Taqueria, 2303 Arctic Ave., Atlantic City, 609-344-2062.