Sunday, November 29, 2015

Good Taste: Duck that says fall

The maple-braised duck with apples and turnips at Russet.   ( CHARLES FOX / Staff Photographer )
The maple-braised duck with apples and turnips at Russet. ( CHARLES FOX / Staff Photographer )

Few restaurants channel the seasons with as much heart as Russet, the understated theater-district BYOB owned by husband-and-wife chefs Andrew and Kristin Wood. And with the weather turning cold, what's more evocative than wood smoke and maple syrup? Andrew steeps those flavors down into one particularly powerful plate of local duck inspired by a meal at Montreal's Au Pied de Cochon.

After brining them for a week, Wood cold-smokes these especially plump legs over apple and cherry wood for eight hours, then slow-braises them in herbed stock and Pennsylvania maple syrup for 16 more hours.

Crisped to order, the leg is served over caramelized apples, baby mustard greens, and roasted purple-top turnips. It's at once rustic and refined, a little sweet and touched with root-cellar bitter, like autumn itself.
- Craig LaBan

Maple-braised smoked duck leg with apples and turnips, $25, Russet, 1521 Spruce St., 215-546-1521;

We encourage respectful comments but reserve the right to delete anything that doesn't contribute to an engaging dialogue.
Help us moderate this thread by flagging comments that violate our guidelines.

Comment policy: comments are intended to be civil, friendly conversations. Please treat other participants with respect and in a way that you would want to be treated. You are responsible for what you say. And please, stay on topic. If you see an objectionable post, please report it to us using the "Report Abuse" option.

Please note that comments are monitored by staff. We reserve the right at all times to remove any information or materials that are unlawful, threatening, abusive, libelous, defamatory, obscene, vulgar, pornographic, profane, indecent or otherwise objectionable. Personal attacks, especially on other participants, are not permitted. We reserve the right to permanently block any user who violates these terms and conditions.

Additionally comments that are long, have multiple paragraph breaks, include code, or include hyperlinks may not be posted.

Read 0 comments
comments powered by Disqus
Latest Videos:
Also on
letter icon Newsletter