Michael Klein: TableTalk

Not since Philadelphia's Great Steakhouse Rush of 2008-2009 has Center City seen the luxe grandeur of Ocean Prime, which opened this week at 15th and Sansom Streets (124 S. 15th St., 215-563-0163), a $5 million build-out of the former Roy's. This is the 10th Ocean Prime for restaurateur Cameron Mitchell, who owns about 20 restaurants nationwide. Entrees start at $27 for chicken and top at $47 for twin lobster tails. Opens 4 p.m. daily.

Old-timers may remember Helen Sigel Wilson, one of the city's most decorated amateur golfers of the 1940s and 1950s, who made her living with the restaurants Helen Sigel Wilson's in Center City and L'Auberge in Wayne. In 1997, she got back into the game with Siggie's L'Auberge in West Conshohocken with her son, George "Siggie" Wilson. Siggie's L'Auberge closed after Helen Wilson's death in 2001.

This week, Siggie opened Bistro Siggie, a BYOB at 2960 Skippack Pike in Worcester (610-584-4600). The room with soaring ceilings, just east of Skippack, is best known as the former home of Fuzion.

Wilson hired chef Gerald Dougherty, whose resume includes the Moshulu, Sheraton Rittenhouse Square, and most recently Little Louie's BBQ. A French-inspired menu, with entrees starting at $21 (chicken breast with corn bread stuffing) to $29 for rack of lamb will be served for dinner Tuesday to Saturday. Lunch is on the way, as is Sunday brunch.

John Torres - whose past includes South Philly's La Serena, Eladio's and Cent'anni - is juggling his longtime chef's job at Villa di Roma with his new BYOB, Predella (932 S. 10th St., 215-923-2323). At Predella - occupying the longtime Bella Vista home of Shank's & Evelyn's and later Carluccio's - his chef father, Ben, is manning the stove to prepare homespun South Philly specialties (veal and chicken parm, sandwiches). It's open 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday. Weekend dinner is on the way.

Chinatown's House of Chen (932 Arch St.) is now Lucky Fortune, a Cantonese restaurant with two floors of karaoke above, run by the crew from the nearby Banana Leaf. Open daily at 4 p.m. till 3 a.m. Menu is budget-priced (most entrees are under $12) and includes chop suey as well as fresh seafood from a tank in the back.

Georges Perrier has an ownership interest in Narberth's the Art of Bread, despite what I reported last week. I also misstated the days that Peppercorn in Wayne serves lunch; it's open Tuesday to Saturday.