Good Taste: Boardwalk Botto-bing!

There was a moment in recent years (a brief one) when new additions to the Ocean City boardwalk had a vaguely healthy-forward approach.

They didn't last long in the land of funnel cakes.

This season's boardwalk newcomer, Botto's Sausage Express, has few such pretensions.

But it has at least sprung from a genuine place, the region's deep well of classic Italian sandwiches as interpreted by the family behind Botto's, a local supermarket sausage brand, and the restaurant in Swedesboro.

Their rehab of a former zombie haunted house is tidy with ample seating and a/c cool.

But meat in all its forms is the real draw, from old-school roast pork to beef-and-veal meatball sliders glazed in red gravy. And Botto's signature, of course, that is worthy of the name: a classic Italian link flecked with just enough fennel and cayenne to peek through the sweet mop peppers and onions on a crusty sandwich.

- Craig LaBan
 
Italian hot sausage sandwich, $6, Botto's Sausage Express, 984 Boardwalk, Ocean City, 609-938-0004; www.bottosausagexpress.com