GoodTaste
The Saint James in Ardmore was playing outside its original suburban comfort-food zone one recent night, evidence that owner Michael Schulson (who also owns Sampan, at 13th and Sansom Streets) has been logging more hours at the stove. Dollops of bigeye tu
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The Saint James in Ardmore was playing outside its original suburban comfort-food zone one recent night, evidence that owner Michael Schulson (who also owns Sampan, at 13th and Sansom Streets) has been logging more hours at the stove.
Dollops of bigeye tuna tartare on warm rice crackers emerged. And slivers of glistening Berkshire pork belly with schmears of root-beer barbecue sauce.
But it was the overhauled pasta dishes that hinted at a new day, one in particular - an exquisite baby fava bean and ricotta ravioli, redolent of fresh mint, the pasta rolled elegantly thin and tender, and bathed in butter and parmesan.
Was there a Vetri-style touch? Well, yes indeed. Chef David Clarke, from the Vetri family's Osteria on North Broad Street, is showing off his pasta chops. Schulson, a big fan, says his role is soon to kick up a notch.
Fava and ricotta ravioli starter, $8, the Saint James, Suburban Square Ardmore. Information: 610-649-6200; saintjamesphilly.com.