Drink: Wining your frenemy

Fresh off his election victory but rolling toward the "fiscal cliff," President Obama knew just the right token to offer his Republican adversary, Speaker of the House John Boehner: a pricey birthday bottle of Brunello di Montalcino ('97 Poggio Antico.)

If wining your frenemy for the holiday sounds like a good strategy, this is a fine time to follow the Prez's vino lead. There are two other fantastic Brunellos on sale in Pennsylvania - each with distinctly different characters. Want a bottle that says "balance, subtlety, and finesse"? Go for Sasso di Sole's 2007 Brunello (discounted to $39.99 from $65), ripe and ready with a light kiss of cherry edged with dusky herbs, anise, good acidity, and a creamy finish that shines with a meal. For something more opulent, step back a year for San Polo's 2006 (marked down to $49.99 from $90.)

This one needs an hour in the decanter to relax, but, whoa, is it profondo! Deep with dark fruit and licorice, tobaccoey tannins, and a long mocha finish that says: "Once this opens up, it's all gonna be OK."

Or, at least, we'll go over that cliff together drinking well.

- Craig LaBan
San Polo Brunello di Montalcino 2006 (code 33095) $49.99; Sasso di Sole Brunello di Montalcino 2007 (code 33024) $39.99.