Drink: Bodegas Teso La Monja

For a decade, the Eguren family's Numanthia Termes helped transform the wines of central Spain's Toro region from old-style rustic to powerfully modern.

After selling the winery in 2008 to giant Moët-Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the Egurens have struck red-wine gold again with a new Toro venture, Bodegas Teso La Monja, which is already making wines from Tinta de Toro (known elsewhere as tempranillo) that are fairly profound for the price.

The wines achieve deeper fruit than tempranillos from more northern Rioja, but also earthiness, depth, and spice. The entry-level 2010 Romanico is simply stunning for $13, showing a deep core of blackberries, chickory and licorice with a hint of tobacco and vanilla.

The slightly more expensive Almirez (Spanish for "mortar") offers more refinement without sacrificing matador soul, with a focused beam of dark fruit and violets, and polished tannins that still have enough swagger to tame a grilled steak.

Bodegas Teso La Monja Romanico Toro 2010, $12.98, and Almirez 2010, $17.98, on sale at WineWorks, 319 Route 70, Marlton, 856-596-3330; Almirez 2007 available in select Pennsylvania stores, $26.99 (code: 16515.)

- Craig LaBan