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SARAH J. GLOVER / Inquirer Staff Photographer
Karmine Taylor-Brown gets assistance from Anna Shnir, a bra expert and sales executive for Panache, at Center City's Coeur boutique, which held an all-day trunk show and bra fitting. "Many women just don't think there is anything for them," says Mona Lisa Jackson, Coeur's owner.
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Better fit? Bra-vo!

Summer fashion? Large-breasted women can't bear it. But new bras with larger cups and smaller back bands are helping them bare it.

Summertime T's, strapless dresses, and tops with backs that crisscross are all challenges to the ample-bosomed.

Just look around. The spillage is hard to miss.

"I really try to avoid the four-boob effect," said Danyale Small as she tried on a chocolate-brown T-shirt bra at a recent fitting at Coeur, a Center City lingerie shop. Her size: 32G.

"It's really hard to find a smooth fit," she said. "And sometimes after a long day, the band digs into my shoulder. Ouch."

Full-breasted women need help lifting and separating.

And to get them through the summer fashion season, which this year includes keyhole blouses, several underwear companies have addressed the ill-fitting-bra issue. 

Their solution? They've created bras with a variety of larger cup sizes that feature tighter bands. According to buxom shoppers, that's key, and not nearly as easy to find as one might think.

Until now, many small-backed women searched and searched for bras. Most relied on expensive department-store brands, and others even sought out boutiques such as Jay Ann Intimates in Huntingdon Valley, which specializes in stylish bras for the well-endowed as well as for women who have had mastectomies.

As for Victoria's Secret?

"They just don't make my size," said Jessica Stempel, who, at 20 years old, completely filled a 34H.

"It's not fun at all for me to shop for bras."

Among the brands that debuted this year are Butterfly, a bra by plus-size company Ashley Stewart. This bra, promoted by Philadelphia singer Jill Scott, is available in sizes 38D to 44DD. Wacoal introduced Top Solution, a brassiere with enhanced-size cups ranging from 32B to 38DD.

This year Maidenform introduced a backless bra to help women avoid back bulges as well as enjoy the frivolity of wearing backless dresses.

One of the most innovative bra lines is Panache D to K. The British-based brand is about a dozen years old and has been available here for five years.

Generally, American cup sizes exist only up to the quadruple D's. Panache ranges in size from 32A to 42K. They come in 15 styles and range in price from $45 to $65. The brand is available locally at Coeur and online at www.panache-lingerie.com.

Recently Coeur held an all-day trunk show and bra fitting that brought more than three dozen women into the store. Their goal was to find a smooth fit ensuring that button-down shirts were stylish options.

Most of the problems women have with bras are rooted in fit, said Anna Shnir, a bra expert and sales executive at Panache. The letters refer to the cup size while the numbers measure the length of the band in inches. Many women mistakenly buy a larger band size when in fact they need a larger cup.

The thought of going above a D in cup size is traumatic to them because they don't want to be thought of as full-figured. But, Shnir says, a large cup size refers just to breasts, not to the whole body.

"If the bra digs into your skin, that means you have a band that's too big that you've tightened too much," Shnir said. "It can also mean the cup is too small and you are compensating with a larger width."

And that promotes spillage. Or worse, navel grazing.

The center of the bra, Shnir said, should sit flush, or tack, against the breastbone. The back of the bra shouldn't be hiked up to near-neck status; it should be level with the front. And, Shnir added, the straps should be wide enough to ensure the proper lift.

"It's important to try on a T-shirt to make sure the bra is smooth enough," Shnir said. "That's the ultimate test."

Coeur owner Mona Lisa Jackson decided to host the fitting with Panache after noticing a parade of droopy-breasted women filing past her store one spring afternoon.

"Many women just don't think there is anything for them," Jackson said. "I just wanted them to know that there are options. And this time of year, it's particularly important."

At the trunk show, a rack of bras in black, peachy nude, brown nude and white took up the back of the roughly 900-square-foot boutique.

Each woman went straight for it. Their oversized bags were in tow, sunglasses perched on heads.

Before they could even get into the navy-blue-carpeted dressing rooms, they were peeling off T-shirts and lowering the straps of sundresses, eager to try on what was promised to be the perfect bra.

"It took a long time for me to find the right fit," said Tremayne Askew, 39. "I was wearing a 38DD and I'd get back bulge and my bras never lifted and shaped as they should have. It turned out I was a 34G. And then I realized I had a waist."

Stay-at-home mom Karmine Taylor-Brown emerged from the dressing room beaming. Her 38FF bra fit smoothly underneath her coral T-shirt dress.

"It's like I had surgery!" she nearly screamed. "Oh they are so beautiful! And I normally don't say they are beautiful, but they are beautiful."

See what difference the right bra can make?


If You Go

Coeur
132 S. 17th St.
Philadelphia, PA 19103
215-972-0373

Contact fashion writer Elizabeth Wellington at 215-854-2704, or send her an e-mail at ewellington@phillynews.com/exchange.

 

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