'Steak (R)evolution' is tasty, if overly long

Vegetarians need not apply for this one.

French director Franck Ribière, along with his favorite butcher, Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec, goes on a quest to find the perfect steak in Steak (R)evolution. They travel the world, to Brooklyn's Peter Luger, to Montreal's Joe Beef, to Le Bourdonnec's Parisian butcher shop, to farms in Argentina and beyond.

Through their mouthwatering journey, they consider trends in the beef industry and the ways globalization has affected how we eat. The breeding of cows in France, for instance, was affected by the rise of grilling in the United States in the 1950s. Meat was less frequently boiled, so the demand for fattier cows increased.

Ribière also looks at environmental effects on beef production. The proprietors of Peter Luger might not be so keen on grass-fed beef, but Ribière interviews a cattle herder who spouts Michael Pollan-influenced ideas about grass-fed beef that we'll have to get used to it if we want the planet to survive. Steak (R)evolution presents these sides, rather than taking them.

Ribière is passionate about his subject, which is clear in the documentary's overly long running time (looking at gorgeous steak is nice, but two hours of it is a bit much).

Still, the doc takes a holistic approach to a specific industry, and until Steak (R)evolution gets repetitive, it's fascinating to see how everything, from culture to politics, affects what we eat and how we eat it.

Pro tip: Make a reservation for Barclay Prime when the movie is over.

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Directed by Franck Ribière. With Franck Ribière, Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec. Distributed by Kino.

Running time: 2 hours, 5 mins.

Parent's guide: No MPAA rating.

Playing at: Ritz Bourse.EndText

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