Saturday, July 12, 2014
Inquirer Daily News

Drink: Orleans Borbón Manzanilla

Orleans Borbón Manzanilla on draft at Tria Taproom, 2005 Walnut St.
Orleans Borbón Manzanilla on draft at Tria Taproom, 2005 Walnut St. DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer

A deliberate tilt toward beer is obvious at the new Tria Taproom, where 24 of the 40 taps are designated for cultish finds like those from Italian Birra del Borgo and funky, barrel-aged curiosities from the Zymatore Project.

Perhaps more unusual, though, are a dozen of the other taps, now one of Philly's best showcases for the rapidly growing phenomenon of wine on draft. I've been a fan of the high-quality international selections from the tap-pioneering Gotham Project. Among their most intriguing now is the first sherry I've tasted on draft. The system's minimal oxygen exposure is especially beneficial for Manzanilla, the lightest version of the dry Fino style, made in coastal Sanlúcar de Barraméda, and best drunk young. This excellent rendition from Orleans Borbón is noticeably fresh and aromatic, with a sea-breeze saltiness and lemony zing that's perfect for the Taproom's seafood nibbles and saltier cheese.

- Craig LaBan
Orleans Borbón Manzanilla on draft, $8.50 a 3-ounce glass, Tria Taproom, 2005 Walnut St., 215-557-8277; triacafe.com/taproom

Craig LaBan Inquirer Restaurant Critic
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