Drink
It was predictable, perhaps, that finicky pinot noir would fall victim to the curse of popularity. But truly great pinot - that ultimate harmony of elegance and power - has become oddly harder to find since its starring role in the movies unleashed an ocean of mediocre pretenders.
It was predictable, perhaps, that finicky pinot noir would fall victim to the curse of popularity. But truly great pinot - that ultimate harmony of elegance and power - has become oddly harder to find since its starring role in the movies unleashed an ocean of mediocre pretenders.
The market is now soaked with vapid young lightweights on the low end, and cumbersome fruit-and-dirt bombs on the high end trying too hard to merit their inflated prices. This 2007 Sonatera Vineyard Sonoma Coast pinot noir from Siduri is a notable exception.
For one, Siduri has emerged from the fray as one of West Coast's most consistent and stylish pinot stars. Secondly, its single-vineyard prestige bottlings rarely come much cheaper than the 50 percent discount Pennsylvania has snagged on what would have been a $50 bottle. With a little air, you get a noseful of its complexity - flowers and earth and bright fruit. On the palate, silky tannins embrace and don't let go until waves of black cherry, espresso, and dried currants work a convincing magic. Yes, this one really is a great pinot.
Don't wait, though. Supplies are extremely limited, with most bottles located in Philadelphia.
- Craig LaBan
Siduri Sonatera Vineyard 2007 pinot noir, $24.99, in select Pennsylvania stores (code: 15874).