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The great wines of France have a well-earned reputation for being expensive, but look just beyond the most prestigious regions and there are lesser-known wines with amazing value to be discovered. The appellation of Minervois, for example, is producing some outstanding reds in the southern French region of Languedoc-Roussillon.

The great wines of France have a well-earned reputation for being expensive, but look just beyond the most prestigious regions and there are lesser-known wines with amazing value to be discovered. The appellation of Minervois, for example, is producing some outstanding reds in the southern French region of Languedoc-Roussillon.

Located beside the Pyrenees in an area that for much of the last century was considered an ocean of mass-produced vin ordinaire, Minervois produces wines that are slightly more polished than those of neighboring Corbières, and have steadily improved since the appellation was established in 1985. They especially merit note for their ability to make good use of the carignan grape with other familiar Rhône-style varietals. This 2005 L'Ostal Cazes Minervois Estibals is a superb example. Made in one of France's strongest years, this sun-ripened blend of syrah, carignan, and grenache delivers a catchy balance of earthiness and finesse, with concentrated berry and black plum fruit spiced with the dried herb savor of the region's scrubby "garrigue" landscape. Great with lamb and game.

The L'Ostal Cazes Minervois Estibals 2005 is sold in Pennsylvania for a reasonable $14.99. But caution: The 2003 vintage is nearly twice as much.

- Craig LaBan