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There is a distinctive brightness to New Zealand sauvignon blanc, a zippy perfume so lively that it can sometimes smell like the back of a grapefruit truck.

There is a distinctive brightness to New Zealand sauvignon blanc, a zippy perfume so lively that it can sometimes smell like the back of a grapefruit truck.

I like those tart citrus-bowl sauvignons on occasion, but what I prefer are slightly riper versions like this 2008 Mount Fishtail from Konrad Hengstler in Marlborough, which has the softer aromatics of tropical fruit and lime, braced by a salty mineral and savory finish. Fresh is usually better with New Zealand sauvignons, which lose some vibrance after a year, so it's a good thing this screw-top bargain is priced in Pennsylvania about $5 below the national average - ideal for everyday drinking.

The 2008 Mount Fishtail Sauvignon Blanc costs $11.99 in Pennsylvania.

- Craig LaBan