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I love the sleek white wines coming out of Austria, those bright and edgy gruner veltliners that bring an herbal, spicy zing. This Hugo from Huber has some of that trademark zip, but also a surprising juiciness, too, an off-dry kiss of apricot to balance a limey tang that reminds me of a simple little riesling.

I love the sleek white wines coming out of Austria, those bright and edgy gruner veltliners that bring an herbal, spicy zing. This Hugo from Huber has some of that trademark zip, but also a surprising juiciness, too, an off-dry kiss of apricot to balance a limey tang that reminds me of a simple little riesling.

Priced at just under $10 in Pennsylvania, with an eye-catching label that looks like a big pastel barcode, this bottle has "party wine" written all over it.

The 2007 Hugo gruner veltliner from Hugel costs $9.99 in selected Pennsylvania "Premium Collection" stores.

- Craig LaBan