Super soup

There's nothing better to warm body and soul on a cold winter's day than a bowl of steamy hot soup.

Thus, the recent bout of freezing temperatures sent us to local eateries in search of our town's best broths.

Recommendations were many and varied, among them the creamy chicken and lush carrot specials at N. 3rd, the Thai seafood hot pot featured at Chabaa Thai Bistro, and the popular tortilla soup served daily at El Vez. Close contenders included the Italian wedding soup at Ralph's in South Philadelphia, the posole soup at Acapulco on South Ninth, and a whole menu of noodle-rich soups at Ong's in Chinatown. (We especially liked the satay beef and Hong Kong-style beef brisket.)

After cradling a few hot crocks to revive circulation in numb fingers and slurping some most satisfying liquid meals, we settled on a sampling of special recipes to share along with advice from the chefs who produce them.

Fans of chef Peter Dunmire's gastropub menu and rich soup repertoire at N. 3rd (801 N. Third St.) have dubbed him Soup King.

With a background in classic French cuisine drawn from three years in the kitchen at the late, great Deux Cheminees, training at La Varenne in Paris, and later chef tours here at Blue Angel, Rouge and Brasserie Perrier, Dunmire has put out some of the city's finest pub fare for four years at the laid-back bistro in his Northern Liberties neighborhood.

Under Dunmire, the restaurant's nightly soup specials have made N. 3rd a must stop for soup lovers.

"Our customers like hearty soups that do not stray too far from what they may have had as a child," said Dunmire.

"Vegetable beef, split pea with bacon, cream of potato, cauliflower and cheese . . . sometimes it feels like we're being inspired by Campbell's soup labels. But the classics are always best, especially when made with love."

Dunmire's first rule of soup-making: Saute onions or shallots and use good chicken stock.

"For home cooks, pureed soups are the easiest way to start," he said, noting that the featured vegetable - potatoes, carrots, whatever - should be cooked with just enough chicken (or vegetable) stock to cover it by one inch.

"You can adjust the thickness of the soup by adding more stock for a brothy soup, or less for a thicker, heartier texture. Cream may be added or omitted. The water content of the vegetable should be taken into account. Butternut squash and cauliflower need far less stock than potatoes or carrots, for example."

Also, bean soups are almost foolproof. Adding onions, carrots, celery, and some smoked pork product to cooked beans and broth makes a delicious, easy soup every time.

With all soups, Dunmire says, add seasoning near the end.

"The last thing, or two, should be salt and pepper."

For home cooks willing to do more than open a can but not thrilled with the prospect of spending hours simmering stock from scratch, a wealth of fresh-tasting prepared stocks and soups is available in supermarkets.

Among our favorites is Wegmans Thai Culinary Stock (see today's "Market Basket"). The moderately spiced, all-natural, vegan soup base is made with a good measure of chili sauce, lemongrass, gingerroot and Kaffir lime leaf, ingredients not on most weekly shopping lists.

While chef Brenda Hangtaneramed at Chabaa Thai Bistro in Manayunk would not consider using gingerroot in place of the hotter, spicier galangal that heats up her Po Taek (the traditional seafood hot pot that is among Thailand's most popular dishes) and other soups, substituting strong winter ginger is acceptably close for most Western cooks, especially those who favor a milder taste.

"We don't use ginger in our soups, because it is not as spicy as galangal," said the Thai chef, who came to the United States almost 13 years ago, working first in Chicago. She joined Chabaa Thai in 2005, shortly after it opened.

"Ginger is better for stir-fries. Fresh galangal has a different aroma and more flavor. It is hotter, stronger and good for soup. We believe in Thailand that it can stop the growth of cancer."

You need only bite unsuspectingly into a piece of galangal to choke on its breathtaking intensity.

Galangal is a gnarly white rhizome akin to ginger but more pungent, peppery and somewhat "perfumey." Only occasionally available fresh, it is more often found frozen, in powder form or in jars in Asian markets.

As with most soup bases, the Thai stock is quite versatile and can be made milder by adding coconut milk.

Use prepared broth or soup as a base to create your own soup or for a richer flavor when cooking rice or noodles.

The tortilla soup at El Vez is an example of building layers of flavor and texture on a chicken broth base. The restaurant's opening chefs, Jose Garces and Julio Rivera, developed the recipe, building flavors with each new ingredient that goes into the pot.

"Tortilla soup is traditionally very rich," said chef Art Cavaliere. "Ours starts brothy, but is thickened with strips of fried tortillas. It adds a textural difference which is very profound."

While soft flour tortillas are cut in strips and fried fresh for the soup at El Vez, Cavaliere says that it's "totally acceptable" for the home cook to add crumbled tortilla chips from a snack bag, just as you might add crumbled saltine crackers to tomato or chicken noodle soup.

His measurement: "The thicker you want the soup, the more tortillas you add."

The growing array of shelf-stable soup bases is a perfect starting point for creating home-cooked soups.

Look for the Pacific Foods and Imagine Foods brands (32-ounce shelf-stable cartons) in Whole Foods, Wegmans, ShopRite, Super Fresh, Genuardi's, Giant Foods, and many natural foods stores including Essene and Weaver's Way Co-op.

Extensive options run from free-range chicken broth to curried red lentil soup, from basic vegetable to cashew carrot ginger. Imagine Foods (the Hain Celestial Group) also offers a collection of "creamy" soups: creamy sweet pea, acorn squash and mango, butternut squash, portobello mushroom, potato leek, sweet corn, tomato basil, and more. Their bisques include corn chipotle and Cuban black bean.

All are excellent starters for adding vegetables, meats or seafood. Use the carrot soup base in the Moroccan carrot recipe or add Asian spices and coconut cream for a Thai-style curried carrot. Or try adding bacon and chorizo to the fire-roasted tomato base.

The options are without limit.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

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2 quarts rich chicken stock

Sprig of thyme

5 bay leaves

6 chicken legs or 12 thighs

1/2 pound (2 sticks) butter

1 large onion, peeled, diced

3 ribs celery, diced

1 large carrot, scraped, diced

6 ounces andouille sausage, diced or thinly sliced

1 cup flour, instant if desired

2 cups heavy cream

1 cup corn kernels (freshly shucked or frozen)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

Salt and pepper to taste

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1. Bring the stock to a boil with the sprig of thyme and the bay leaves. Add the chicken and cook through, about 20 minutes. Remove cooked chicken; set aside to cool.

2. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh strainer. Discard refuse. Set aside the broth, skimming off fat when it cools.

3. In a separate pot on medium-low heat, melt the butter. Sweat the onions, celery, carrot and andouille, taking care not to brown the vegetables or the butter.

4. Gradually add the flour, stirring briskly to blend the butter-flour roux. Gradually add the stock, stirring steadily until the broth returns to a boil and starts to thicken.

5. Add the cream, corn and thyme. Return to a boil.

6. Meanwhile, when the chicken has cooled, remove and discard skin and bones. Dice the meat and add it to the soup. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

7. Serve the soup hot, with a garnish of croutons, fresh parsley or chives, as desired.

Per serving (based on 8):

748 calories, 35 grams protein, 23 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams sugar, 58 grams fat, 266 milligrams cholesterol, 1,594 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.

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Makes 6 to 8 servings

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2 tablespoons butter or olive oil

2 large white onions, peeled and chopped

2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

2 quarts rich chicken stock

2 tablespoons Moroccan spice mix (Ras al Hanout), see Note

Salt and pepper to taste

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1. In a saucepan on medium heat, melt the butter. Sweat the onions and carrots until onion is soft, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the stock. Bring to a boil and simmer until the carrots are tender, about 20 minutes.

3. Puree the soup with an immersion blender or in a processor or blender.

4. Add the spice mixture. Adjust seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste. If the soup appears too thick, add a little more stock until it has the desired consistency.

5. Garnish as desired or with goat cheese croutons and chives.

Note:

Moroccan spice mix, Ras al Hanout, is an aromatic blend of allspice, black pepper, cayenne, cinnamon, clove, coriander and ginger. It is available at the Spice Market in the Reading Terminal Market and at Caviar Assouline.

Per serving (based on 8 with olive oil): 112 calories, 3 grams protein, 17 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams sugar, 4 grams fat, 3 milligrams cholesterol, 1,040 milligrams sodium, 4 grams dietary fiber.

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Makes 1 or 2 servings

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2 cups rich chicken broth

3 thin slices galangal root

2 stalks lemongrass, cut in 2-inch pieces

4 or 5 Kaffir lime leaves

2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce

Juice of 1 lime

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh bird chile pepper, to taste (optional; available at Asian markets)

4 fresh mussels in the shell, debearded

2 extra-large shrimp, shelled, tails left on

2 large scallops

2 ounces squid, cut in rings

2 ounces crimini mushrooms, quartered

1/4 cup diced (1/2-inch) red and green bell peppers

5 or 6 fresh basil leaves

1 tablespoon minced cilantro

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1. In a saucepot, combine the chicken broth, galangal, lemongrass, lime leaves, fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and chile pepper; bring to a boil.

2. Add the seafood and simmer just until the mussels shells open and shrimp are opaque. Do not overcook.

3. Add the mushrooms and bell peppers.

4. Remove the pot from the stove. Transfer the mixture to a heated clay serving pot or tureen. Add the basil and cilantro. Cover and let steep for a couple of minutes to enhance the flavor and aroma before serving.

Per serving (based on 2):

179 calories, 26 grams protein, 11 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams sugar, 3 grams fat, 138 milligrams cholesterol, 2,580 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.

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Makes 8 to 10 servings

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1 medium Spanish onion (8 ounces), coarsely chopped

3 ripe plum tomatoes

2 pieces   La Morena Chipotle Peppers in Adobo Sauce

6 pasilla chiles, seeded, toasted and pureed to a paste with a little water

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 tablespoons roasted garlic

1 gallon rich chicken stock

8 ounces fried tortilla strips or white corn tortilla chips

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 chicken breast, poached, boned, the meat shredded

1 ripe avocado, pitted, sliced

1 pint sour cream or thick, plain yogurt or to taste

½ bunch fresh cilantro, chopped

1 lime, halved and seeded

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1.   Char the onion and tomatoes in a dry hot skillet.

2.   Transfer the charred vegetables to a 6- to 8-quart stock pot. Add the chipotle, the pasilla puree, tomato paste and roasted garlic and saute for 3 to 5 minutes.

3. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil.

4.   Add the tortilla strips and return to a boil. Blend as desired with an immersion (hand) blender. Season to taste.

5.   Strain the soup and ladle it into serving bowls.

6. Garnish each serving with shredded chicken, avocado slices, sour cream, cilantro, freshly squeezed lime juice and additional fried tortilla strips or chips as desired.

Per serving (based on 10):

308 calories, 12 grams protein, 28 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams sugar, 18 grams fat, 34 milligrams cholesterol, 1,693 milligrams sodium, 5 grams dietary fiber.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

8 cups chicken broth, rich homemade or prepared

3/4 pound ground beef

3/4 pound ground pork

8 large eggs, divided use

1 cup dry bread crumbs

2 teaspoons dried basil

1 teaspoon dried parsley

1 1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese, divided use

2 medium heads escarole, washed and chopped fine

1. In a pot over medium heat, bring the broth to a boil.

2. In a large bowl, mix the beef, pork, 3 of the eggs, the crumbs, basil, parsley and 1/2 cup of the Parmesan. Mix well and form into bite-size balls (up to 1 inch diameter). Drop the meatballs into the boiling broth and add the escarole.

3. When the meatballs rise to the surface, about 6 minutes, they are cooked. When the escarole is wilted it is done.

4. Meanwhile, in a separate bowl, beat the last 5 eggs with the remaining 1 cup of cheese. Slowly pour the egg-cheese mixture into the boiling soup, stirring briskly and steadily with a fork, until the egg is cooked and in "rags."

Per serving (based on 8): 395 calories, 31 grams protein, 12 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams sugar, 24 grams fat, 285 milligrams cholesterol, 1,413 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.

Makes 6 servings

1 cup lentils, rinsed

Water or broth to cover

2 large potatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 carrots, scraped and diced

1 rib celery, diced

Salt and black pepper, to taste

2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed

2 tablespoons grated pecorino Romano cheese or to taste

1. Put the lentils in a saucepan and add water to cover by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil. Add the potatoes, carrots, and celery. Return to a simmer and cook until the lentils are tender, 25 to 30 minutes. If scum rises to the surface during cooking, skim it off. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

2. In a small pan, heat the oil and saute the garlic until golden. Remove garlic. Set the oil aside and keep warm.

3. When the soup is served, spoon a little garlic oil (up to 1 tablespoon) onto the soup; sprinkle with grated cheese and black pepper. Serve with crusty artisan bread or garlic bread, using any remaining oil for dipping.

Note: If desired, add a pinch of dried red pepper flakes when heating the garlic oil.

- Recipe from Steven Petrecca, executive chef at Jones restaurant

Per serving: 323 calories, 12 grams protein, 40 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams sugar, 14 grams fat, 2 milligrams cholesterol, 45 milligrams sodium, 13 grams dietary fiber.

Makes 4 servings

2 large skinless chicken thighs

6 cups rich chicken broth

1 large carrot, scraped, sliced

1 small red onion, peeled and diced

1/2 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced

2 tomatoes, stems removed, diced (2 tablespoons set aside for garnish)

2 or 3 cloves garlic, sliced thin

2 medium bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon New Mexico chili powder (optional, see Note)

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

1 lime, halved, divided use

Salt and pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger (or to taste)

3 small inner ribs celery, sliced

1/4 to 1/2 cup cooked rice

1 ounce shredded Monterey Jack cheese (4 tablespoons)

Fresh cilantro for garnish

1. Grill or saute the chicken thighs on medium-high heat until lightly browned and cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Remove and discard bones. Cut the meat into 1-inch dice.

2. Meanwhile, in a 21/2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the carrot, onion, bell pepper, tomatoes, garlic, bay leaves, chili powder, vinegar, and juice of 1/2 lime (about 1 tablespoon) in enough water to cover.

3. Bring to a boil and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, adding the chicken, when done. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

4. Remove from heat. Add the ginger and celery.

5. To serve, put 1 to 2 tablespoons rice into each serving bowl. Spoon the hot soup over top, removing the bay leaves. Divide the shredded cheese over top. Garnish each portion with reserved diced tomato, cilantro and 1/4 of the last half-lime.

- From Charles Alvarez, chef-owner of Pura Vida restaurant

Note:

New Mexico chili powder, found in Latino markets, is mild and adds some color to the broth.

Per serving: 168 calories, 17 grams protein, 13 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams sugar, 5 grams fat, 65 milligrams cholesterol, 137 milligrams sodium, 3 grams dietary fiber.

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