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Good Taste

Let Craig LaBan have all the fun with diver scallops, as he did in this space last week? Another great two-scallop appetizer ($11) comes off the stove of Mike Stollenwerk at Little Fish. He whips up a cauliflower gratin of bechamel and fontina cheese, sears the salted-and-peppered scallops, and plates them atop a smudge of slightly sweet raisin emulsion made of sherry wine vinegar and oil. A dusting of sea salt at the very last moment gives the scallops a special crunch.

Let Craig LaBan have all the fun with diver scallops, as he did in this space last week? Another great two-scallop appetizer ($11) comes off the stove of Mike Stollenwerk at Little Fish. He whips up a cauliflower gratin of bechamel and fontina cheese, sears the salted-and-peppered scallops, and plates them atop a smudge of slightly sweet raisin emulsion made of sherry wine vinegar and oil. A dusting of sea salt at the very last moment gives the scallops a special crunch.

- Michael Klein

Little Fish, Sixth and Catharine Streets, 215-413-3464.