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Chocolates and wine: Sweet companions

On the face of it, wine and chocolate seem like improbable paramours - like a Valentine's Day date set up by your mom.

Soulmates: Wine and chocolate can be exquisite complements with the right balance of bitter, sweet and dry. (ERIC MENCHER / Inquirer)
Soulmates: Wine and chocolate can be exquisite complements with the right balance of bitter, sweet and dry. (ERIC MENCHER / Inquirer)Read more

On the face of it, wine and chocolate seem like improbable paramours - like a Valentine's Day date set up by your mom.

For many diners, the arrival of a chocolate dessert is a cue to push aside the goblet of pinot noir. And, unless you are an aficionado of sweet wines or fortified wines like port, the options seem limited to liqueurs, coffee or water.

But when I began looking into the flavor components of wine vs. chocolate, I discovered that several affinities exist - and some of them are quite delicious. It has to do with the biochemical profiles of each, and how they interact on the palate.

For example, think of the flavors we do perceive in wine: berries, pears, cherries, plums and vanilla, among others. And what gives them vibrancy and structure? Acid and astringency (or tannin).

It is somewhat the same with chocolate, even more apparent as artisanal producers craft less-sweet and more varied creations. It's not uncommon today for a chocolatier to blend beans from several different countries, in the manner of winemakers blending grapes from different vineyards.

So if you are pondering what to drink when that Gibraltar of flourless chocolate cake arrives at the table - or if you opt to lie back at home with carry-in pizza and a floorboard-size plank of Lindt semisweet, here is a primer.

First, consider the type of chocolate, which is classified according to its percentage of chocolate "liquor," a term that refers to the sludgelike mass left after grinding treated cocoa beans. Major categories are:

Unsweetened: Also known as "bitter" or "baking" chocolate, this is pure liquor and is confined to cooking.

Bittersweet: The FDA requires this to be 35 percent pure liquor, although most bars found in stores contain at least 50 percent. The sugar content varies. It typically has a sharp and peppery edge that is offset by a relatively small dose of sugar.

Semisweet or dark chocolate: A bar of this can contain 30 percent liquor or more, and is blended with sugar, cocoa butter, vanilla and an emulsifier. The bitterness is less pronounced owing to the high sugar level. Most commonly, this is what people secrete in their work cubicles when they should be eating an apple.

Milk chocolate: Most valentine hearts are sculpted from this. About 10 percent liquor, it is fleshed out with condensed milk or dry milk solids, and butterfat, which gives it a waxy appearance. No bitterness.

White chocolate: Devoid of chocolate liquor. Devoid of flavor, too, other than sugar. It's essentially cocoa butter and milk solids. Nevertheless, it is in demand.

The first person I turned to for guidance on the chocolate and wine question was John Scharffenberger, cofounder of the artisanal chocolate company Scharffen Berger, in Berkeley, Calif. (now owned by the Hershey Co.), and previously a West Coast winemaker.

"There's a huge amount in common between wine and chocolate," he said. "In fact, you can learn a lot about wine by studying the fruit essences and acids and tannins. And it's a lot of fun."

Scharffenberger conducts wine and chocolate seminars around the country and has produced a video on the subject (see www.AllChocolate.com).

As a rule, the more bitter the chocolate, the fruitier and softer the wine (and the lower the tannins) to accompany it. Bitter chocolate and harsh tannic wines "do not make good cellmates," notes Mark Cochard, who teaches wine and chocolate classes at Chaddsford Winery in the Brandywine Valley. "If two similar sensations like that clash, it's unpleasant on the palate."

Cochard will be conducting wine and chocolate classes with Christopher Curtin, owner of Éclat Chocolates in West Chester, for the rest of the month.

Bittersweet chocolate, whether consumed in bar form or in a dessert, allows the widest range of wine pairings because it strikes a pleasing balance between astringency and sugar.

Juicy red wines like syrah (called shiraz in Australia) profit from a kick of sharp cocoa, too. Similarly, consider low-tannin zinfandels, pinot noirs and merlots. Supple Burgundian reds are custom-made, as are plump barbarescos from Italy. Then there is the plethora of simple, easy-drinking reds gushing north from the so-called New World. (I will address sweet and fortified wines later).

Semisweet, or dark, chocolate presents another diverting challenge. Because its astringency is somewhat masked by sugar, a complementary wine should contribute structure.

That translates to slightly tannic wines. Two that come immediately to mind are young French-style cabernet sauvignons and reds from the Rioja and Navarra regions of Spain. Riojas, in particular, can be marvelous, as they are generous with essences of vanilla, toasty oak, leather, and, yes, dark chocolate. Young Italian Barolos and some Australian cabernet sauvignons can be added to the barrel. Also worth exploring are certain frisky young California zinfandels (3 to 6 years).

Dark chocolate, naturally, requires a sturdy wooden crutch. Many of the wines recommended above can work well here. Again, stick with recent vintages in which the tannin is still in play. To this list you could add, from France, cabernet sauvignons, and the spicy and high-alcohol petit verdots from Bordeaux. Lightly oaked reds from the Pacific Northwest have the goods as well.

When we consider milk chocolate, the going gets slippery. Since we can't go further down the tannin highway without chewing on the barrels, we have two other areas of exploration. Several experts promoted dry reds, others dry whites like muscadet and sauvignon blanc.

"In Switzerland," explained Albert A. Lauber V, chocolatier at Neuchatel Chocolates, based in Oxford, Pa., "when we had a very sweet dessert, sometimes a dry white wine held a nice contrast."

Virtually every connoisseur interviewed passionately maintained that the best match with any type of chocolate, bitter to sweet, is port.

"Americans don't drink a lot of port, but it is so warm and woody and complex - it's perfect," gushed wine-and-chocolate maker Scharffenberger.

Port, a sweet, barrel-aged fortified wine from Portugal, comes in many guises and price ranges, with rare vintages fetching hundreds of dollars. For about $30 you can find good tawny port (named for its color) from well-known houses (Sandeman, Cockburn, Dow's, and Fonseca). Madeira, from the Portuguese islands of the same name, is excellent as well.

Similarly, dessert wines can be fetching dates with all types of chocolates. It's really a matter of your affinities.

Does your heart race in the presence of a ripe apricot? Try a Malvasia di Lipari from the Italian island of the same name. For a marvelous distillation of honey and raisins, ask your wine merchant about late-harvest whites or reds - the term connotes grapes left on the vine to shrivel and intensify.

So, if you are fortunate enough to receive a box of quality chocolates - or any chocolates, I suppose, if romance is the objective - keep in mind Forrest Gump's dictum: You never know what lies ahead, so keep an open mind.

Combinations to try

Dark chocolate truffles:

Champagne or Spanish cava; French Vouvray (white) and young cabernet sauvignon.

White chocolate truffles: Champagne, Spanish cava; milk.

Chocolate layer cake: Young American zinfandel; reds from Spain's Rioja and Navarra regions; Australian cabernet sauvignon; Italian Barbaresco.

Bittersweet molten chocolate cake: French Muscat de Beaumes de Venise; Italy's Malvasia di Lipari, Amarone della Valpolicella, and sparkling (dry or off-dry) Prosecco.

Baked Chocolate Pillows (flourless chocolate cake): (see accompanying recipe) Framboise (French raspberry brandy, or eau-de-vie); California orange muscat; French Banyuls; tawny Port, Madeira; young cabernet sauvignon and syrah; Italian dolcetto d'Alba.

Chocolate soufflé: Any good sparkling wine; Moscato d' Asti from Italy's Piedmont; French Banyuls; German off-dry whites; Italian Lambrusco (a fizzy and sweet red wine);

Chocolate and Orange Tart: (See accompanying recipe) Moderately tannic and fruity reds: cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, shiraz; 10-year-old tawny Port.

Semisweet chocolate bar: American zinfandel; Australian shiraz; fruity New World reds; Amarone della Valpolicella; sangria.

Milk chocolate bar or kisses: Very dry whites; tannic reds; 10-year-old Port. (That'll be a hit in the company cafeteria).

Heart-shaped box of assorted chocolates you finish in one sitting: Anything that fizzes.

Baked Chocolate Pillows

Makes 24 individual, muffin-sized cakes

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Butter (a ½-inch thick pat) for greasing muffin tins

12 ounces bittersweet chocolate (60% or more cocoa content), chopped

4 tablespoons butter

9 large eggs, separated

1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) brown sugar

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1.   Heat oven to 400 degrees. Grease the cups of two 12-cup nonstick muffin tins (or bake in two batches).

2.   In a large bowl set over a pot of boiling water, melt the chocolate and butter, stirring to combine. Set aside over the water to keep warm but not too hot.

3.   Whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Add the brown sugar and whisk again until stiff peaks form.

4.   In another large bowl, whisk the egg yolks until they are bright yellow and smooth; blend into the melted chocolate. Fold in the whipped egg whites with a spatula, one-third at a time, just until incorporated.

5.   Using a whisk, deliberately overmix the batter (once it is smooth, whisk for 30 seconds more). The aeration gives these flourless chocolate cakes a smoother texture.

6.   Divide the batter in the muffin tins, filling each cup about ¾ full. (Recipe can be prepared ahead to this point and the batter-filled pans frozen for future baking.)

7. Bake until the cakes puff up out of the cups, 7 to 8 minutes. They should be slightly resilient when touched and a toothpick inserted in a cake should come out clean. (If frozen, remove from freezer while heating the oven to 400 degrees. Bake as above allowing 8 to 10 minutes.)

8.   Carefully invert the tins over a greased cookie sheet or countertop. Tap the tins lightly to release the cakes. Set the puffed cakes upright at once. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cooled with a garnish of vanilla-flavored whipped cream, if desired.

Per cake: 129 calories, 3 grams protein, 11 grams carbohydrates, 9 grams sugar, 9 grams fat, 86 milligrams cholesterol, 46 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.

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Chocolate and Orange Tart

Makes 6 to 8 servings

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For the Orange Cream:

3 large eggs

1/2 cup sugar

1 teaspoon finely grated orange rind

1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

6 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, cut into cubes

For the tart:

1 prepared 8-to-9-inch pie shell

4 ounces bittersweet chocolate (with 70 percent or more cocoa content)

Orange Cream filling

Slightly sweetened whipped cream

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1.   For the Orange Cream: In a stainless-steel mixing bowl (not aluminum), whisk or beat the eggs and sugar until light and fluffy. Whisk in the orange rind and juice.

2. In a saucepan that can hold the bowl, bring about 1 quart of water to a boil. Set the metal bowl over, but not touching, the boiling water. Stirring steadily, cook the sauce gently until it thickens, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and, one piece at a time, beat in the butter. Let stand at room temperature until just warm. Makes about 3 cups.

3. For the tart: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake the pie shell until barely golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool.

4.   With a large knife, chop the chocolate fine and scatter evenly in the cooled pie shell.

5. Pour the warm orange cream evenly over top.

6.   Bake until the filling is puffed and slightly resilient to the touch, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool about 20 minutes.

7. Cover or decorate with whipped cream. Serve at once. (The orange cream may also be served with fresh berries, pound cake, or other types of tarts.)

Per serving (based on 8): 380 calories, 5 grams protein, 33 grams carbohydrates, 19 grams sugar, 27 grams fat, 116 milligrams cholesterol, 215 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.EndText