Good Taste

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The Italian egg roll at Sonam on South Street.

Some would argue that you don't mess with perfection.

The South Philly roast pork sandwich with broccoli rabe and sharp provolone, for example. Or that Americanized Chinese staple, the egg roll.

But Ben Byruch artfully combines the two at his ambitious South Street small-plate BYO, Sonam. For his "Italian egg rolls," Byruch shreds pork and broccoli rabe, layers in provolone, and adds roasted yellow peppers in an egg-roll wrapper. The rolls are deep-fried, cut on the bias, and served with a side of sun-dried sweet-chili sauce that balances the bitterness of the broccoli rabe and tempers the provolone.

Hmm, you might say: Next thing, Byruch will make a cheesesteak terrine. In fact, he does.

- Michael Klein

The Italian egg roll costs $8 at Sonam, 223 South St., 215-922-3092; www.sonambyob.com.