Cheese of the Month

Green Hill is named for the verdant Georgia pastures where the Sweet Grass Dairy cows get their munching groove on. And you can actually see the deep maize hue of beta-carotene in this creamy cheese that a rich grass diet lends their milk.

Well-salted and properly aged, an oozy Green Hill also takes on the glossy shine and taffylike stretch that only the best soft cheeses can acquire. And this is consistently one of the best bloomy-rind rounds I've tasted from America, shaped like a Camembert puck, but with the milder personality of a Brie.

Sweet Grass Dairy's Green Hill costs $15 at Metropolitan Bakery, 262 S. 19th St., 215-545-6655. It can also be ordered for $9 online directly from the producer at www.sweetgrassdairy.com. Second-day shipping charges usually cost about $15 for up to six pounds of cheese.

Craig LaBan