Good Taste

The foods of Britain have become hot in recent years, which may come as a suprise to some. The fact that England makes great cheese, however, isn't news to anyone who has dabbled with Stilton, or, at the very least, watched the animated antics of Wallace and Gromit.

But I doubt even the cheese-obsessed Wallace has gotten much chance to nibble on Doddington, because, though this aged cheese has an impressive Old World elegance, it has been made for only about five years, says Emilio Mignucci, of Di Bruno Bros., which receives one 22-pound wheel per month. Made from raw cow's milk at Doddington Dairy in Northumberland, in northeastern England, Doddington combines the techniques of two classic cheeses, he says.

One is "cheddaring" (the repeated cutting and stacking of curds, a practice that lends tang and tautness). The other is that the curds are pressed, a technique more common with Gouda. With 12-14 months of age, it has the mosaic curd texture of a well-aged Gouda, but also the piquancy and buttery richness of cheddar, with a mellow nuttiness and fruit that lingers on the tongue like a good butterscotch. Eat with pears and a good port, and a spot of your favorite animated show.

- Craig LaBan
Doddington is available for $27.99 a pound at both Di Bruno Bros. locations, 930 S. Ninth St., 215-922-2876; and 1730 Chestnut St., 215-665-9220.