Nothing extends a holiday meal quite like a good fortified wine - and Pennsylvania State Stores now have two very different kinds of port on sale worth seeking out. Neither is from Portugal.

You'll taste the jammy red California fruit of a late-harvest zinfandel in this ruby-style port from Lake Sonoma, a syrupy elixir reminiscent of deep purple plums dipped in dark chocolate. The Old Codger from Dutschke in Australia is made in the lighter tawny style, with an aftertaste of walnuts, and a measured burnt-sugar sweetness that frames bright berry fruit. The label alone, depicting a doddering elderly gent finding his way down a cobbled alley, is worth the reasonable price. The codger in your family will no doubt appreciate the thought.

The Dutschke Old Codger Fine Old Tawny costs $12.99, and Lake Sonoma Winery 2004 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel Port costs $19.99 in selected Pennsylvania state wine stores.

- Craig LaBan