http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban RSS Feed for Inq Col Craig LaBan en-us Sun, 19 Feb 2012 02:35:36 GMT http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/20120219_La_Spinetta_Barbera_Ca__di_Pian_2008.html The Rivetti brothers of La Spinetta - the Piedmont winery with the distinctive rhino label - are famed for their fruit-forward takes on Barbaresco. These powerful-yet-elegant wines drawn from single vineyards have come to define what author, vintner, and http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/20120219_Ulivo.html The "wilderness phase" of Joseph Scarpone's career took a bit longer than expected. But if ever there was a bright little dumpling to lead the way to the end of that path, the ethereal ricotta gnocchi he serves at Ulivo - glowing bright in a halo of truffle butter - are as powerful a beacon as any. They're so delicate, these soft puffs o http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/20120205_bells.html http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/20120216_The_bells__the_bells_.html Craig: After all my recent restaurant eating, it was a joy to do some home cooking. This weekend I tackled David Chang's phenomenal bo ssam roasted pork butt from the Momofuku cookbook, with all the fixings, plus some homemade steamed buns. The pork was amazing, like salty-sugar glazed pork candy. But I was really proud of these buns: Just look at these steamy little guys! Chinatown at home! http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/20120205_fountain.html http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/20120205_le_bec.html http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/20120205_barclay_prime.html http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/20120205_lacroix.html http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/20120205_talulas_garden.html http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/20120205_tinto.html