Drink: Grignolino d'Asti Gianni Doglia

That moment when late summer shifts to fall is a transition time for wine, when foods begin to take on heartier shades but drinkers still cling – just a little bit - to the season's last beams of warmth.

For rosé drinkers then, a light-bodied red is a nice transition. And this Grignolino d'Asti from Giannia Doglia in Northern Italy's Piemonte region is a lovely choice.

This black grape indigenous to the Monferrato hills is meant to be drunk young and fruity as an accessible counterpoint to the region's famously dense and prestigious Nebbiolos.

Despite its light ruby color and medium body, though, the grape's many seeds provide a mild-mannered pop of tannin, structure, and bitter spice on the finish to help it pair with food.

For a recent feast of grilled chicken with Mediterranean spice, we could not have made a better $16 choice.

- Craig LaBan
Grignolino d'Asti Gianni Doglia 2015, $16, Moore Bros. Wine Co., 7200 N. Park Dr., Pennsauken, 888-686-6673; moorebrothers.com