Drink: Galer rosé

Among the esoteric sips available at Jet Wine Bar, one can drink Macedonian zilavka or golden Portuguese vinho branco. But owner Jill Weber's most surprising pours are coming from the under-loved-but-rising vineyards of Pennsylvania. Featured in the clever "Summer of I-76," round-robin flights of three local wines for $10, I came across a green-apple-crisp chardonnay that reaffirmed my faith, for example, in the whites of Penns Woods.

My newest infatuation, though, is the dry rosé from Galer Estate, a fledgling winery from Brad and Lele Galer. Their vines abutting Longwood Gardens were just planted in 2005, and a street sign just went up last month. But winemaker Catrina North is already a name worth remembering. For this rosé, she's collected the vineyard's various red grapes - mostly cabernet franc, with merlot, spicy petit verdot, and cab sauvignon - and vinted them pale-pink and bone-dry. As minerally complex as a balanced blush from the south of France, this may be as close as we get to a taste of Provence on the Brandywine.

- Craig LaBan
Galer 2012 rosé, $9 a glass (or $10 as part of three-wine flight) at Jet Wine Bar, 1525 South St. Also $19 a bottle at Galer Winery, 700 Folly Hill Rd., Kennett Square; 484-899-8013, www.galerestate.com