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Drink: A white Bordeaux style from Napa

Bordeaux almost always refers to a red blend. But the dry whites of Bordeaux are underappreciated, especially those from Graves. So I was intrigued by this elegant California homage to the style from Napa's Chimney Rock. This Stag's Leap district star, kn

Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc Napa Valley White Wine 2008. March 20, 2013. ( MICHAEL S. WIRTZ / STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER ).
Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc Napa Valley White Wine 2008. March 20, 2013. ( MICHAEL S. WIRTZ / STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER ).Read more

Bordeaux almost always refers to a red blend.

But the dry whites of Bordeaux are underappreciated, especially those from Graves. So I was intrigued by this elegant California homage to the style from Napa's Chimney Rock.

This Stag's Leap district star, known for pricey cabs, blends sauvignon blanc with sauvignon gris, a pink-skinned grape that adds an unusual texture to the wine.

Most popular sauvignons these days are almost garishly bright. But this one, while still aromatic with lemon, apple and tropical notes, is softened and enriched by the gris, which adds opulent weight to the wine as well as a complex, savory finish. A discount of more than 50 percent off list price makes this a deal.

- Craig LaBan
 
Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc 2008, $19.99 in Pa. (code 32419.)