Viña Cobos Felino Malbec 2009

Some wines, more than others, are meant to be drunk with certain foods. And while malbec can be versatile, it really struts alongside a grill sizzling with Argentine-style beef, whose smoky edge and chimichurri-splashed zing demand a wine with real swagger.

This 2009 Felino from Viña Cobos, the Argentine project from Sonoma star Paul Hobbs, has that attitude to spare, with a crush of dark fruit (blackberries) framed by deeper, spicier notes (bitter cocoa, coffee, pipe tobacco, prunes) that help put a good steak's earthier flavors on a pedestal.

Unlike the many less-well-made malbecs, Felino also shows finesse with well-woven tannins that practically purr even at this young age. A very good and consistent bottle for under $20 - but even more tasty since a recent price drop by $2 in Pennsylvania.

- Craig LaBan
Viña Cobos Felino Malbec 2009, $17.99 (code 5121) in select Pennsylvania wine stores.