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Elegant, earthy Gilles Gelin Fleurie proves Beaujolais is for drinking all year

Craig LaBan, Restaurant Critic

Updated: Friday, May 19, 2017, 3:01 AM

Fleurie 2014 by G. Gelin.

Few wines other than Champagne have been pigeonholed into a small window of seasonal drinking quite as much as Beaujolais, which has primarily occupied our sipping consciousness at the end of November, when the latest "nouveau" — the fruitiest, wiftiest, unaged version of the famous bistro wine is released to the public just in time for Thanksgiving.

But savvy drinkers know the gamay grape is capable of far greater depth and aging potential when it comes to the crus, those more substantial wines made from better fruit in the 10 villages surrounding Beaujolais.

The 2014 vintage made by Domaine Gilles Gelin in Fleurie, a district whose wines are known for their floral aroma, is a perfect example.

This wine, made from vines that average 45 years in age, has a deep ruby hue, aromas of stony earth, ripe berries, and an almost lush burst of dark cherry fruit that has a sparkle of cracked pepper on the finish. With good acidity and a distinctive minerality to give it structure, this gamay is especially versatile when it comes to food, perfect with chicken or even a simple steak — and more than makes its case as a wine worthy of all-year drinking.

Fleurie Domaine Gilles Gelin 2014, $23, Moore Bros. Wine Co., 7200 N. Park Dr., Pennsauken, 888-696-6673; moorebrothers.com

Craig LaBan, Restaurant Critic

Read full story: Elegant, earthy Gilles Gelin Fleurie proves Beaujolais is for drinking all year

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