Craig LaBan recommends going Grüner for spring

Steinschaden Kamptal. ALEJANDRO A. ALVAREZ / Staff Photographer

There's something about the vibrance of Grüner Veltliner that always makes it seem like the perfect wine for spring, a blast of citrus and herbaceousness that begs to be served with the lighter fare of a warming season. It's no wonder Austrians love to pair it with asparagus, which is about as spring as you get. It's also a friendly and flexible pairing with seafood, which makes it a fine choice to take along to a fish-forward BYOB like Wister in Old City. This 2015 Steinschaden is a great value around $15 and has a little bit of the complexity I look for in a good Grüner: It's quenchingly crisp but also has faintest hint of sweetness (some Mandarin orange along with the typical lime) and just enough richness in glycerin texture to round out the wine's racy minerality and a light spicy finish typical of the Kamptal region.

-- Craig LaBan

Steinschaden Grüner Veltliner Kamptal 2015, $14.99 in Pennyslvania Premium Collection wine stores (code 99289)