VERY GOOD

24 WOOD

FIRED FARE

2401 Walnut St.; 215-333-3331, 24philly.com

Jose Garces' foray into the wood-fired Italian wave serves solid renditions of tasty antipasti, excellent pastas, and fresh salads at fair prices in a casual, industrial chic setting that occupies a special perch overlooking the Schuylkill River Trail. The inconsistent pizzas need work for this project to rise beyond simply being of neighborhood interest. But the unique location, simple successes, and circular bar have potential to grow into a fixture for those crossing the Walnut Street Bridge.

MENU HIGHLIGHTS South Philly chopped salad; Brussels sprout Caesar; verde salad; burrata with nasturtium salsa verde; cauliflower with dukkah; polpette; calamari; artichoke farinata; cacio e pepe; pesto pasta; tuna Bolognese; lamb-sausage pizza; four cheese pizza; cauliflower pizza; chicken parm hoagie (lunch); tuna hoagie (lunch); perfetto.

DRINKS Classic cocktails get Italian twists with amari, wood-charred ingredients, and deft balance for one of the restaurant's stronger suits. Try the Cherry Range (with charred cherry), smoky See the Joy, and the Daily Routine kombucha riff on a Pimm's Cup. The all-Italian wine list is also appealing with a range of options around $50 or less a bottle, but try the wines on draft. At $22-$24 for a 15-ounce carafe, they embody the easy-drinking spirit of the space. Grappas and amari make for fine riverside sipping.

WEEKEND NOISE With lots of hard concrete surfaces, noise can hit a boisterous 93 decibels. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)

IF YOU GO Lunch daily, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Sunday through Thursday, 5-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until 10 p.m. Happy Hour nightly from 4:30-6:30 p.m. Coffee bar opens Monday through Friday at 8 a.m.; weekends at 11:30.

Pastas and pizzas, $14-$16.

All major cards.

Reservations encouraged, but not required.

Wheelchair accessible.

Parkway offers a discounted rate of $5 parking after 6 p.m. and weekends (up to 2 hours). The lot and ADA entrance are located at 24th and Sansom Streets. For directions, please use the following address: 120 S. 24th St.

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