VERY GOOD

BAIT & SWITCH

2537 E. Somerset St., 267-639-5041; thebestseafood.com

It smells like a summer vacation at this casual fish house and gastropub in Port Richmond, where chef Joe Hunt draws on inspirations from North Philly to South Carolina for quality seafood updates that are fresh and affordable. Perhaps even more intriguing, this smartly renovated corner tavern with a congenial front U-shaped bar, rear beer garden, and youthful vibe from the team behind Loco Pez feels like the harbinger of a new generation for Port Richmond, which finally seems to be picking up Fishtown's momentum.

MENU HIGHLIGHTS Clams casino; Louisiana BBQ shrimp; angry mussels; oysters on the half shell; New England clam chowder; Port Richmond surf and turf; shrimp fry; fry basket; fish and chips; fresh catch (blackened); shrimp and grits; key lime pie; toasted Stock's pound cake.

DRINKS A well-rounded drink program has the expected core of rotating craft brews that leans local, from Victory Winter Cheers to Troegs Perpetual IPA and hits from Yards, Neshaminy, Sly Fox, and Dogfish Head. There's also a solid list of local spirits (Kinsey, Rowhouse, Thistle Finch) to back a small cocktail list focused on refreshing and well-balanced punches (try the spiced 95 Project). There are 10 better-than-expected-at-a-pub wines by the glass, all under $10. Try the crisp, cheerful, and faintly fizzy vinho verde from Broadbent.

WEEKEND NOISE The bar can hit a lively 89 decibels when full but is usually mellower, with cozy enclaves where conversation is possible. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less).

IF YOU GO Dinner nightly, 5-11 p.m.; 4-11 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Brunch Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m.

Dinner entrees, $8-$21.

All major cards.

Reservations accepted.

Not wheelchair-accessible. (A step at the entrance, and bathrooms are not wheelchair-accessible.)

Street parking only.