Drink: In ITV's Drunken Farmer, a mystery ingredient

There are so many good things to drink at ITV, it can be hard to choose from the Basque ciders to biodynamic Austrian wines and grower champagne, and even a couple of sakes.

But the small list of cocktails is also a good place to start, due to its crisp use of unusual combinations, like rhum agricole kissed with Cynar for the orangy Barba Rosa; or tequila, allspice, and Madeira for the Hansel and Gretel.

The drinks also show some intriguing culinary work.

For example, it's a delicious mystery, based on the ingredient list alone, where the pronounced coconut flavor comes from in the Drunken Farmer.

The secret is the discovery that fig leaves produce that distinctive flavor when simmered in simple syrup.

Paired with bourbon, whose barrels also offer coconut-vanilla notes, plus a splash of peach for tart sweetness and an egg white to give it a cheery froth, this surprising fall drink is almost tropically refreshing.

- Craig LaBan
The Drunken Farmer, $11, ITV, 1615 E. Passyunk Ave.; itvphilly.com.