Good Taste: Korean fried chicken is Fishtown's newcomer

Andy's Chicken is no fast-food joint.

Despite the nonstop buzz behind the counter of its no-frills take-out corner, this red-hot Fishtown newcomer may, in fact, be the slowest Korean fried chicken take-out operation in the city, obliging a call-ahead order at least a half-hour in advance, and, if my experience was typical, an extra 15 minutes of patience on top of that.

But it's worth the logistical challenge.

Because Andy's is easily one of the best in this recent wave of new K.F.C. contenders. Unlike most others, whole chickens are brought in daily and hand-cut by owner-chef Andy Choi, who marinates them in secret seasoning and "some fruit" for one day.

After a traditional double-fry for extra crunch, Choi tosses his half-birds in one of seven house-made sauces. My favorites so far are the fire-engine-red sweet "chili" with just enough zing, and a honey garlic that tastes better than it looks, largely because it's thickened with pureed garlic.

What really distinguishes Andy's, though, besides the wait, is the right balance: a crust that compliments - rather than overshadows - the chicken inside.

- Craig LaBan
Korean fried chicken with sweet chili or honey garlic sauce, $9.19 for a half order, $18 for whole, Andy's Chicken, 2001 Memphis St., 215-291-0700.