DRINK

The "Zazous," like author-poet and songwriter Boris Vian, were the flamboyant young jazz fans of France who used the freewheeling, escapist swing of American music as a form of rebellion against the conformity of Nazi-occupied France. What it has to do with this wine, I'm not exactly sure. But as a Vian fan, it caught my eye.

As a lover of great values from underappreciated regions such as Corbières, I came to appreciate this blend of carignan, grenache, syrah, and mourvedre on its own lusty terms. Imported by the Love Over Money collection, this red from Boutenac in central Corbières is surprisingly jammy, with dark berry fruit and black licorice depth right out of the screw-top bottle.

I suppose that easy-drinking, big-fruit nature could be considered its New World "Zazou" touch. But after a few minutes of air, that southern French character began to swing, too, a peppery tingle of herbaceous Langedoc spice that's perfect for hearty meat dishes like cassoulet, lamb, or duck. It's one of the better sub-$15 red values I've tasted in a while.

- Craig LaBan

 Zazou Corbières, $12.99 in Pennsylvania (code 6310).