Sunday, October 4, 2015

Life, Life, Love

Drink: Smoked Marcona Old Fashioned

Smoked Marcona Old Fashioned at Volvér.
Smoked Marcona Old Fashioned at Volvér. ED HILLE / Staff Photographer
Smoked Marcona Old Fashioned at Volvér. Gallery: Drink: Smoked Marcona Old Fashioned

Unlike its plan-ahead, big-investment dining room, Volvér's cocktail lounge is a haven for an intimate, spontaneous splurge. Dark and moody with the swirling fabric of artist Conrad Booker's wall-spanning textile sculpture, I can think of few spaces where I'd rather linger over charcuterie, caviar, and tartare - especially with a Champagne benefactor in tow. But Volvér's cocktails are just as impressive, at once balanced and complex and fair value at $12. Fresh-pressed pineapple gives the rummy Spruce & Broad a nutmeg-dusted golden glow. Sugar-snap pea juice garden-izes the sherried vodka Sugar Snap. I loved the Smoked Marcona Old Fashioned, though, for its drama - an alderwood plank is set on fire! The smoke is trapped inside a tumbler and still rolling about when the sweetened brew of rye and Marcona almond bitters splashes in, sending notes of campfire, salt, and nuts washed with sweet whiskey weaving across my tongue. Now that's a performance cocktail.

- Craig LaBan
Smoked Marcona Old Fashioned, $12, Volvér, the Kimmel Center, 300 S. Broad St., 215-670-2303.

Inquirer Restaurant Critic
We encourage respectful comments but reserve the right to delete anything that doesn't contribute to an engaging dialogue.
Help us moderate this thread by flagging comments that violate our guidelines.

Comment policy: comments are intended to be civil, friendly conversations. Please treat other participants with respect and in a way that you would want to be treated. You are responsible for what you say. And please, stay on topic. If you see an objectionable post, please report it to us using the "Report Abuse" option.

Please note that comments are monitored by staff. We reserve the right at all times to remove any information or materials that are unlawful, threatening, abusive, libelous, defamatory, obscene, vulgar, pornographic, profane, indecent or otherwise objectionable. Personal attacks, especially on other participants, are not permitted. We reserve the right to permanently block any user who violates these terms and conditions.

Additionally comments that are long, have multiple paragraph breaks, include code, or include hyperlinks may not be posted.

Read 0 comments
comments powered by Disqus
Latest Videos:
Also on
letter icon Newsletter