Good Taste: Burger from Avance
"We don't want people to think we have our noses in the air," says Justin Bogle, the chef-partner at Avance, the successor to Le Bec Fin. "We needed a great burger if we were going to have a proper bar."
Judging by the chain reaction of copycat orders heading my direction one recent night at the downstairs bar (where it's exclusively served), Avance is doing that burger right.
For one thing, it's made from excellent ground lamb from Border Springs Farm, cooked a perfect mid-rare on a house-baked potato bun.
But its North African flair is what really lit my tastebuds, the harissa-spiced fresh mayo contrasting with piquant feta, and a smoky sweet tang of grilled red onion marmalade.
Crispy rails of chickpea fries scattered with herby charmoula complete this hearty, exotic plate: a "proper" bar burger, indeed, and then some.
- Craig LaBan
Lamb burger, $18, Avance, 1523 Walnut St., 215-405-0700.