Drink: Tre Monti "Vigna Rocca" Albana di Romagna 2012

Tre Monti's "Vigna Rocca" Albana Secco

Of all the reasons to visit Osteria's new sibling in the Moorestown Mall, the most compelling (aside from a movie and a good sale at Lord & Taylor) is an exceptional Italian wine list - often a third less expensive than at the Philly original.

Ah, the virtues of drinking across the river from a wine scene stifled by the PLCB.

And while aficionados will likely go for the famous Brunellos and Barolos, I savor the guidance of Osteria's outstanding wine stewards, who eagerly share their passion for lesser-known, small production vino.

Going for the big steak? A $53 bottle of Cantina Due Palme's inky-dark Susumaniello (a.k.a. "Donkey wine") has a smoky, jammy, herby Pugliese edge.

I was most enchanted, though, by Tre Monti's "Vigna Rocca" Albana Secco, my first taste of a native Emiglia-Romagna grape that was pure gold in the glass, fleshy in the mouth with a nutty tone and pearlike ripeness, and a perfect match for some of the richer pastas. At $36 a bottle, vs. $54 in Philly, it was also worth crossing the bridge for.

- Craig LaBan

Tre Monti "Vigna Rocca" Albana di Romagna 2012, $9 a glass ($5 for 3 oz.), Osteria Moorestown Mall, 856-316-4427.