Thursday, April 17, 2014
Inquirer Daily News

Good Taste: Buns meet carnitas at Jose Pistolas

Carnitas, Jose Pistolas.
Carnitas, Jose Pistolas. DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer

Many cooks have come and gone from José Pistola's, the quirky gastropub mash-up of top-notch craft beer and oddball Mexican fusion.

For the first time, though, owners Joe Gunn and Casey Parker have a cook in Adan Trinidad whose food is as notable as the taps. The Puebla-born Trinidad, a vet of El Vez and Alma de Cuba, makes one of the best tortilla soups in town, as well as hand-pressed masa sope cups filled with tender braised goat.

The runaway hit, though, has been his Latin-Asian fusion of puffy white handmade steamed buns folded around slow-braised pork carnitas.

On football Sundays, Mondays, and Thursdays, the bun variations expand to five, including one stuffed with meatballs stewed in mole inspired by a recipe from Trinidad's mom. ¡Ándale, José!

- Craig LaBan
Steamed carnitas buns, $7 for two, José Pistola's, 263 S. 15th St., 215-545-4101; josepistolas.com.

 

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