Good Taste: Duck on a roll

Duck meatball sandwich at High Street on Market.

The reinvention of Fork Etc. as High Street on Market is still new, the shelves replaced in favor of more seating to feature chef Eli Kulp's exceptional scratch cookery.

But some memorable flavors have already impressed: melt-in-your-mouth pastrami; a stunning Benton's ham and Gruyère Danish with silky redeye gravy; extraordinary breads by baker Alex Bois (Anadama, Ancient Grains, even potato loaf!) already among the city's best.

My early favorite, though, is the duck meatball sandwich. Bit players on Fork's whole-bird platter, the tender orbs here are the stars, braised in spicy sweet-and-sour tomato gravy then lined atop a semolina roll with Swiss and a luxurious smear (banh mi-style) of creamy liver mousse.

It's so elevated, Kulp is reluctant to call it a hoagie. But I think this zesty high-end handful simply takes the genre to a new frontier.

- Craig LaBan
Duck meatball sandwich, $14, High Street on Market, 308 Market St.; 215-625-9425.