Tequila's owner, David Suro-Piñera, is an agave purist.
That's why he typically drinks only the citrusy unaged "blanco" version of the Siembra Azul tequila he's produced in Jalisco, Mexico, since 2005.
He will, however, make an exception - ¡con gusto! - for the extraordinary extra añejos his distillery just issued, the five-year-old "Suro" aged in spicy American oak from the Ozarks, and the seven-year-old "Piñera" aged in French wood.
Tequilas matured beyond the three-year "añejo" line are relatively new, and these older, pricey Siembras show the spirit may have aging limits. I much preferred the younger Suro, because the agave's grassy zing was still vibrant through the almost brandied amber elixir. Woven into the wood's caramelly richness, the taste of almonds, dried fruit, and smoky tobacco spice rose up, but also the dusky herbaceousness of the epazote fields that grow near the agave. This is a collector bottle for sure.
But it's also one of the most exceptional spirits you'll ever taste. - Craig LaBan
Siembra Azul Suro Extra Añejo, $25 a glass at Tequila's (1602 Locust St.), or $102.99 a bottle, special-ordered through any PLCB store (use code 535742.)