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Cheese of the Month: Manouri

Cheese of the Month: Manouri is like ricotta salata's Greek cousin, a cheery white cylinder of sheep's milk cheese made in central and northern Greece from the whey left over from feta production. There is a touch of feta's saltiness in Manouri's white crumbles, but not its sharp acidity, instead a lemony aftertaste that hints of grass, nuts, and the pastoral earthiness of sheep. Easily broken into bits over crunchy rustic salads or shrimp with oregano and orzo, but also creamy enough to be shaved into strands over pasta salads, Manouri is a versatile ingredient to brighten lighter summer fare. My favorite use, though, is to pair its mild savory piquance with honey, nuts, and ripe fruit — a cheese course worthy of a summer meal in the sultry Greek isle of my imagination.

Manouri is like ricotta salata's Greek cousin, a cheery white cylinder of sheep's milk cheese made in central and northern Greece from the whey left over from feta production. There is a touch of feta's saltiness in Manouri's white crumbles, but not its sharp acidity, instead a lemony aftertaste that hints of grass, nuts, and the pastoral earthiness of sheep. Easily broken into bits over crunchy rustic salads or shrimp with oregano and orzo, but also creamy enough to be shaved into strands over pasta salads, Manouri is a versatile ingredient to brighten lighter summer fare. My favorite use, though, is to pair its mild savory piquance with honey, nuts, and ripe fruit — a cheese course worthy of a summer meal in the sultry Greek isle of my imagination.

Manouri, $14.99, Di Bruno Bros. (Rittenhouse Square and Italian Market locations); www.dibruno.com

— Craig LaBan