Craig LaBan's chat: The bells, the bells; gastropubs; chefs' counters

Craig: After all my recent restaurant eating, it was a joy to do some home cooking. This weekend I tackled David Chang's phenomenal bo ssam roasted pork butt from the Momofuku cookbook, with all the fixings, plus some homemade steamed buns. The pork was amazing, like salty-sugar glazed pork candy. But I was really proud of these buns: Just look at these steamy little guys! Chinatown at home!

Reader: What would it take for a three-bell restaurant like Le Virtu to get four bells? I have been to both Le Virtu and Vetri and I think Le Virtu is the best affordable Italian in the city.

Craig: I'm a big fan of Le Virtu. And it was a real pleasure to see that place grow from two to three bells last year. That next leap, though, is the hardest to predict. I'll know it when I taste it. But not every restaurant was cut out to be a four-bell experience. Much like Osteria - it is just perfect as a three-beller, and I suspect Le Virtu is the same way. That said, no one knows the future. ...

Reader: I was curious about your selections on gastropubs. I've always felt that while amazing in some regards, three bells for Standard Tap? How is it that their level of service justifies that high of a review?

Craig: I know that may seem a bit high for a pub, but I gave that rating a number of years ago because I felt Standard Tap really set the standard in its genre, and it still does. I find the folks who work here are incredibly informed on the beers and food, which remains, to my mind, some of the best bar food anywhere. We went back recently, and I just loved our meal, from the fried smelts to the pork sandwich (so tender and flavorful) to a fantastic cazuela filled with monkfish and clams. Carolynn Angle's still kickin' it in the kitchen, so I saw no reason to change this rating. ST still sets the "bar."

Reader: Two of the most notable omissions in your gastropub list: Pub & Kitchen and Varga Bar. Jonny Mac and Evan Turney are two of the best chefs in this town, let alone at gastropubs. Why the lack of love?

Craig: The gastropub genre was probably the most crowded field. So many great contenders there, including Pub & Kitchen. I've not been quite as impressed with the food at Varga Bar - food always sounds better than it tastes.

But P&K really just missed being put on that list. 1) I don't think their beer selection really competes with the others in the top five, and 2) while I've loved much of my food there (especially that burger) it always seems a little too expensive in the end, compared to the competition. I understand George Costa (ex-Southwark) is now behind the bar at P&K, and I really do need to get back. Their cocktail program has also probably taken a leap accordingly.

Reader: I am a regular of Kraftwork and Standard Tap. I also frequent North 3rd. Do you feel North 3rd deserves to be in the equation of best gastropubs? The food is always on point and it fits in the mold of gastropubs. What can a place like this do to achieve three-bell status?

Craig: I've always liked North 3rd, which, like P&K as well as McCrossen's Tavern, and maybe even Johnny Brenda's (or for that matter, Teresa's Next Door), could have been considered. Last time we were in for brunch, though, the table was dirty and the hostess was a little rude, so we ended up not staying. I still like North 3rd and will chalk that up to just a bad morning - but that didn't help its case for the Top 5. ...

Reader: I wish more places had up-close chefs' counters like Amis. My wife and I sat there last weekend and, despite the erection of a new "mini-fence" between the customers at the counter and the chefs, it continues to be a great place to watch a kitchen at work. Sampan's is pretty good too. Do you ever get the sense that these sorts of up-close atmospheres are a distraction for the kitchen or does the staff like being under the close eye of their customers?

Craig: Interesting question: I think it can be a real distraction for some chefs who are only used to working in the privacy of a kitchen. After a while, though, I can imagine it's quite a rush to be able to interact with your clientele and watch them enjoy your creations. Immediate satisfaction, as long as all goes well.

Reader: Did Vedge's delays in opening cause it to miss out on any contention for Super Bell Sunday?

Craig: Yes. Can't give four bells to a restaurant that's not yet been reviewed. That review is slated to run Feb. 26. Next week, I'll be out of town on assignment, "brewing" up something special. Stay tuned to my Twitter feed (@Craig LaBan) for details!