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Good Taste: Shrimp dumpling noodle soup from Sang Kee

Chinatown in Cherry Hill Chinatown's Michael Chow and his Sang Kee noodle machine is in rapid suburban expansion mod, branching out simultaneously into Cherry Hill (where he's co-owner) and Newtown Square where he's just consulting). Crafted in the modern

Chinatown's Michael Chow and his Sang Kee noodle machine is in rapid suburban expansion mod, branching out simultaneously into Cherry Hill (where he's co-owner) and Newtown Square where he's just consulting).

Crafted in the modern spirit of his successful Wynnewood locale, the Cherry Hill space is a sleek but tiny 45-seat BYO with no reservations. But a recent weekend meal showed why there are steady lines already.

South Jersey has few Chinese kitchens that can match Sang Kee for its fresh, affordable, authentic Hong Kong flavors.

Among the most popular has been Sang Kee's signature shrimp dumpling noodle soup, a rarity that brings golden broth and noodles with thin-skinned wonton pillows, their centers plumped with shrimp mousse that's airy and delicately seasoned. Other popular dishes include braised beef noodles, and my own personal fave, chicken stir-fried with chive blossoms and tangy, dark XO sauce.

Shrimp dumpling noodle soup, $6.50, Sang Kee Noodle Cafe, 1601 Kings Highway, Cherry Hill, 856-310-2388; www.sangkeenoodlehouse.com

- Craig LaBan