Kunik is an opulent triple-crème from Nettle Meadow Farm in Upstate New York that, in its glory, delivers a rare combo of runny richness and sunny tang. Until recently, this bloomy rind disc has appeared locally far too young to show its stuff. At Garces Trading Co., where it's a mainstay on the cheese plate, the patient mongers have mastered the finishing (and they're also willing to slice a quarter of the 15-ounce round to keep the price within reach). You get a halo of oozing luxury around the edges, thanks to a dose of buttery Jersey cow cream, plus the citrusy brightness of milk from goats who munch on raspberry nettles. It's that tartness that shines through the richness and keeps it clean and yes, even light.

Kunik, $28.99 a pound, Garces Trading Co., 1111 Locust St, 215-574-1099.

- Craig LaBan