Good Taste

Mike Stollenwerk's Fish has swum into its own lately as the city's best destination for serious contemporary seafood, bobbing up to a new three-bell rating after a recent meal that was inventive and vivid with intensely seasonal flavors from chef de cuisine Justin Petruce. The spirit of moment doesn't get any more fleeting than this plate of spring - seared scallops with white asparagus panna cotta and new spring potatoes tossed with ramps (both pickled and buzzed into bright green vinaigrette) that Stollenwerk plucked from the forest himself. By next week they may be gone, but then spring garlic makes the scene.

Scallops and ramps, $15, Fish, 1708 Lombard St., 215-545-9600.

- Craig LaBan