Skip the dry wines for Thanksgiving dinner
Daily News wine expert Marnie Old advises trying a sweet wine with your big holiday dinner.
B UZZ: Hey, Marnie, what kind of red wine should I get for Thanksgiving?
Marnie: That depends on what you're serving. Is it the traditional holiday meal?
Buzz: Yup. Turkey and ham, cranberry relish, sweet potatoes and stuffing - the works.
Marnie: OK, Buzz, there's really only one thing to bear in mind, then, when you choose a wine. I know you prefer dry wines, but you should get something that tastes noticeably sweet.
Buzz: I quit drinking Bali Hai and Mad Dog 20-20 in college. Why would I change now?
Marnie: I know it sounds strange, but sweet wines suddenly taste quite dry when served alongside sugary foods. It's a trick our senses play on us, sort of like how our eyes adjust to bright light.
Two competing sources of the same stimulus don't "add up" to seem stronger, they seem weaker together. The main thing that distinguishes Thanksgiving from other meals is how much sugar is in every dish.
Buzz: I've never thought of Thanksgiving dinner as a big dessert.
Marnie: Consider this - cranberry sauce with the turkey, honey glaze on the ham, sweet potatoes with brown sugar and mini-marshmallows. Dry wines can't handle this much sugar. It leaves them tasting sour, thin and brittle, kind of like orange juice after brushing your teeth.
The only solution for sugary food is to pour something that's at least a little bit sweet, whether it's white or red, and let them cancel each other out.
Buzz: Wait, aren't all reds dry? That's one of the reasons I prefer them to whites.
Marnie: Not anymore. One of the biggest wine trends these days is more and more red wines featuring overt sweetness. Cheap and cheerful bargain brands, like Franzia or Yellow Tail, have always made reds that were under $10 and lightly sweet, but nowadays candy-sweet options like red moscato are all the rage.
Buzz: Why did that happen?
Marnie: Winemakers realized that many customers would upgrade to better wines if sweeter reds were available, so we're now seeing more sugar in premium wines, too.
The smash success of a few California blends that flirted with the edge of sweetness in the $11 to $15 range, like Menage a Trois and Apothic, have spawned a whole category catering to those who like their reds on the sweeter side. These styles are ideal when sugary sauces dominate at Thanksgiving, even if you normally like your wine dry - trust me.
Buzz: OK, Marnie, you sold me. Goodbye, Mount Eden cabernet and hello, Fancy Pants Red!
Marnie Old is a local sommelier and wine author known for practicaladvice with real-world relevance
Her newest book is Wine: A Tasting Course. Check her out at MarnieOld.com or follow her on Twitter at @MarnieOld.
Buzz's musings are interpreted by DailyNews Assistant Managing Editor Gar Joseph.