The meaning of rye

WELCOME TO Cheap Buzz, where we eavesdrop as sommelier Marnie Old attempts to teach the joys of wine and fine spirits to Buzz, a guy with no sophistication and not much money. Here's their latest conversation:

BUZZ: When I was a kid and the weather turned chilly, my grandma drank rye Manhattans. She'd let me have the cherry.

MARNIE: Brown spirits like whiskey are great for shaking a winter chill. Not only does the alcohol feel warm going down, the oak aging adds toasty flavors reminiscent of caramel, vanilla and brown baking spices.

BUZZ: I was feeling nostalgic the other day and decided to make one myself, so I went to the store and asked for some rye. The clerk gave me something called (ri)1. It cost as much as my car payment!

MARNIE: Fancy American rye whiskeys have become popular recently. (ri)1 is a small-batch premium spirit. Back in your grandma's day, "rye whiskey" meant Canadian whiskey, a mild style that had some rye in the blend. For a blast from the past, try soaking your cherry in a Manhattan made with cheaper Canadian Club or Seagram's VO.

BUZZ: Only those crazy Canadians would name their whiskey after a loaf of bread. Too many pucks to the head.

MARNIE: Both rye bread and rye whiskey are named for the grain they're made from, Buzz. Canadian distillers have always used rye to add fruity, spicy character to a more neutral corn, wheat or barley base. But since grain content is not regulated there, a "Canadian Rye Whiskey" may have as little as 10 percent rye. The rules are different here. American rye whiskeys must use at least 51 percent of that grain to say "rye" on the label. These ryes are sharper than Canadian whiskeys but lighter and drier than bourbon, with great potential for finesse and complexity.

BUZZ: Why would anyone want their drink to be complicated?

MARNIE: Not complicated - complex, as in layered with many different flavors. If you want to taste a more complex Manhattan, use two parts American rye, one part good sweet vermouth and a dash of bitters, like they did in the 19th century. But there's no need to break the bank. Try a bargain American rye like Jim Beam or Wild Turkey.

BUZZ: Thanks, Marnie. I'm heading out for a cherry on rye.