Oloroso: Spanish tapas from Tod Wentz in Center City

Chef Townsend Wentz, Gordana Kostovski, and their crew have opened Oloroso, a muy guapo Spanish tapas specialist, at 1121 Walnut St., where it shares a bustling Washington Square West block with the Irish Pub, Moriarty’s, Caribou Cafe, Bareburger, Destination Dogs, Spicy Memory, and Matt & Marie’s.

Camera icon MICHAEL KLEIN / Staff
Rear counter at Oloroso, 1121 Walnut St., features a Mangalica ham and the open kitchen. That’s a Bill Strobel mural on the wall.

Wentz — whose stock is high with Townsend, the East Passyunk French gem, and A Mano, the Italian BYOB at 23rd Street and Fairmount Avenue — revamped the narrow storefront previously occupied by Petruce et al.

As part of the work, which they did themselves, they exposed a wall along the small staircase connecting the barroom up to the dining room/kitchen. It’s been converted into a room-size wine cellar. Bill Strobel contributed a wall mural depicting the Conquest of Mallorca, based on works at the National Art Museum of Catalonia.

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Squid ink rice, left, and La Medula, served at Oloroso, 1121 Walnut St.

Vibe is buzzy, and the place to be is the mahogany bar, beneath the barrel-shaped light fixtures.

Bar list is heavy on sherry and vermouth — as 20 varieties of sherry and one on tap, along with a cider and four beers. (Makes sense, given that Oloroso, Spanish for “scent,” refers to a style of premium Spanish sherry found in Jerez and Montilla-Moriles.)

Wentz is refining the menu at the moment — as it opened only a few days ago — but count on 20 tapas including bacalao croquettes, tortilla de patata, fabada asturiana, squid ink rice (with calamari and shrimp), and La Medula (wood-roasted bone marrow, baby turnips, roasted mushrooms, and Madeira); three paellas; and share plates, including a porterhouse and half-pig’s head. Figure on tapas priced at $4 to $15 per, and entrees in the high $20s.

More photos of Oloroso

Hours are 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily, with the kitchen open till midnight.

Camera icon MICHAEL KLEIN / Staff
Oloroso, 1121 Walnut St.