Asparagus done 7 ways at Lacroix

A cheese course with Westfield Farm’s Capri goat cheese, dill pollen, and lavender from Lacroix at the Rittenhouse.

At Lacroix at the Rittenhouse, one of Philadelphia’s few splurge restaurants, chef Jon Cichon themes his monthly tasting menus to a particular seasonal ingredient.

April’s is asparagus, which yields an amuse-bouche and six other dishes all containing the spring vegetable, all artfully plated and served with ceremonial panache.

Cichon starts bold with the amuse-bouche, an inside-out spring roll that wraps raw green asparagus with scallion, basil, bok choy, parsley, and fennel, following it with king salmon with sorrel, mango, and trout roe in a custard made of white asparagus; breaded white asparagus topping escargot with English peas and beech mushroom, enriched at the table in sabayon sauce; a luscious Alaska halibut with morel, lobster, and smoked sweetbreads over potato whipped with white asparagus; and Niman Ranch lamb with asparagus, baby lettuce, ramps, and black garlic.

The transition from savory to sweet is an intricate cheese course: sliced asparagus is layered on a puck of Westfield Farm’s Capri goat cheese and dressed with dill pollen and lavender. (The optional wine pairing for this course is actually a funky Shacksbury Ticonderoga cider.)

Dessert is ice cream made of rhubarb, white chocolate, and white asparagus.

The experience is $115 a head, plus wine/cider pairings. Miss it? May’s ingredient will be peas.

Lacroix at the Rittenhouse, 210 W. Rittenhouse Square.