Tryst opening downstairs at Le Bec-Fin

Seating area of Tryst, beneath Le Bec-Fin.

After nearly three decades, Georges Perrier has remade the bar downstairs from Le Bec-Fin.

By remade, I mean gutted.

The remake is dramatic: The former cloakroom at the bottom of the steps is now an exclusive seating area. The bar area has cozy banquettes (one a faux snakeskin) and small black-topped tables. He's framed the bar -- which now has a frosted, lighted glass top -- in whitewashed wood.

"I"m bringing sexy back," Perrier told me, channeling his best Justin Timberlake.

Tryst -- OK, so the name has been done before -- opens Monday, Aug. 22.

Hearty French small-plate menu from chef-partner Nicholas Elmi is priced from $5 to $21 and includes not one but two foie gras dishes -- on the arancini with truffle and on a plate with Meyer lemon and french toast. Nine beers include the local Yards (India pale ale) and the vaunted La Chouffe, a Belgian ale. Euros dominate the wine list, which has 50-plus by the glass.

Desserts, too.

The menu is here (.PDF).